CFA Love Persians

New Kitten Care Guide

Love Persians Kitten Care Guide

(NOW WITH EXPERT ADVICE AND UPDATES 2014) 



What to have before bringing your kitten home:


Tidy Cat scoop litter found in all major retail stores. You can switch to the litter you have at home or prefer using. Instructions on making the change:
Fill the litter box with half tidy cat and half the brand you like. Once your kitten is comfortable using it, make the full transition to your favorite litter.
Plastic Litter Tray/Pan and Litter Scooper, make sure litter pan is large enough for kitten to place all four paws in and turn around. IT SHOULD BE A  LOW LEVEL LIP FOR KITTENS AND ALL LITTER BOXES SHOULD BE ABOUT 4 times bigger than the cat! Or they will not use it once soiled... small litter boxes can set cats up for failure!!! 
Food and water dish
Royal Canin Dry food Kitten 36 sold at major Pet stores and online.
http://products.royalcanin.us/products/cat-food/persian-30.aspx

A warm and cozy area for Kitten to sleep start with a bathroom or laundry room and as Kitten becomes accustomed to your home you may choose another area.  Kittens enjoy sleeping on a cozy cat bed, fluffy towel, or soft blanket
Cat Scratcher or Cat Play Center and Cat Toys are key
*** Kittens love Catnip!!!
Wide-tooth metal comb for grooming
Cat nail clippers
Kitten Shampoos  
 
Tips on how to Kitten-proof your home:
*** First thing to do is look around your entire home for anything the Kitten might get tangled up in, fall from, or ingest.
Make sure there are no open cabinets kitten may enter
Make sure all rooms Kitten has access to have no open wiring or cords 
Make sure there are no high perches for kitten to fall from
All vents should have a covering
Make sure there is no food or beverages left in kitten area
Make sure the floors do not have anything harmful that may hurt your Kitten’s paws
If you have plants, keep them AWAY from your kitten’s reach.  Some household plants can be harmful and/or poisonous to cats when ingested
Fold or tie up your window blinds’ cord to keep it out of kitten’s reach
Keep your toilet seat cover down as a precaution
Make sure all fragile valuables are kept out of Kitten’s reach
+
Always keep dryer and washer doors CLOSED. Cats like to crawl into them to take a nap

What to do once Kitten is home:
Introduce Kitten to his/her designated area with fresh food and water ready
Make sure to introduce/place Kitten in the litter box
If Kitten seems scared or cries out for Mommy; bring Kitten close to your chest so he/she can hear your heartbeat.  This should help ease the transition and help you bond with your new Kitten better
Give Kitten a small treat such as a piece of boiled chicken or a cat treat to let Kitten know that you are his/her friend.  Let your Kitten smell the treat first and then let him/her eat it.
 
What to always have available for your Kitten:
Bowl of fresh, cold water and fresh dry food
*** I recommend having a full bowl of fresh food out all the time.  Persian cats are very sensitive to smell and respond to the smell of fresh food.  By always refilling the entire bowl with fresh food you are preventing your kitten from overeating and developing obesity.  If your Kitten only sees a small amount of food available he/she will think that is all they have and may either overeat or not eat at all to save the food.  If you are very busy and cannot always provide fresh food I recommend purchasing a feeder. A feeder allows you to always have food available for your kitten and keeps it fresh.  You may also do the same with a water feeder.  
*** If there is still food left over in the bowl you can put the left over dry food back into the bag and mix it up with the fresh food. That way the bowl of food will always smell fresh to your Kitten!
*** Another convenient way to keep dry food fresh is by storing it in Tupperware
 
Clean litter box
*** I recommend cleaning the litter box daily to avoid any mistakes due to the box being full of waste.  
*** Another way you can keep the litter box smelling fresh is by adding a little Baking Soda to the litter box.  Or you can purchase Arm & Hammer’s Litter Box Spray.  They both work well.
 
Cat Scratcher or Cat Tree
 Cats have a natural instinct to climb and scratch.  They need an outlet to use their nails and mark their scent.  By providing them with their ownscratcher/tree you are preventing them from using your furniture instead!
 
Plenty of cat toys with catnip. Give access to water, food and litter box close while your kittens is playing.  
Do not keep all toys out at the same time because your Kitten will get bored of them.  I keep some toys out at a time and rotate them with the other toys.  This will keep your Kitten’s attention and make playtime more fun
 
How to transition your Persian Kitten to a new dry food formula besides Royal Canin Babycat or Kitten 36 dry food:
*** The brand of dry food for your Persian kitten is eating now: Royal Canin Kitten 36 formula until he/she is 1 year old.  After age 1, you may choose from any of the adult varieties of Royal Canin dry food.  *** However, if you choose another brand this is how to make the transition:

We recommend at least a 7-day transition before you begin feeding the new food exclusively. Start by mixing 75% of the old diet with 25% of the new diet on Day 1 and Day 2. On Day 3 and Day 4, mix 50% of the old diet with 50% of the new diet. On Day 5 and Day 6, mix 25% of the old diet with 75% of the new diet. On the 7th day, you can feed the new food exclusively. This allows your pet’s digestive system to smoothly adapt to the new food.




We now use FANCY FEAST chicken classic wet food.



How to groom your Persian Kitten:

Using a wide-toothed metal comb, make short strokes along the length of Kitten’s coat.  The best way to undo tangles is by holding the knot from underneath and combing it out.  Do not pull or tug on the knot
As hair gets longer you will need to comb your kitten more often.  Persian Kittens have a double coat which requires grooming every other day.  Himalayan Kitten’s have a single coat that can be groomed every few days
During the warmer months you may choose to have your Kittens coat shaved into a “lion’s cut by a groomer. All of the Kitten’s hair will be shaved off except the head and end of the tail.  
Keep nails trim with a Cat nail clipper.  Place Kitten a comfortable position on your lap.  Push the soft pad on the bottom of his/her paw until nails retract out.  Clip off only the very tip of the nail that is white.  Avoid the “quick” which is the reddish/pink area of the nail closer to the paw.  If you cut too deep into the quick you may cause bleeding to occur.  If Kitten’s nail is bleeding apply pressure until bleeding stops.  I recommend trimming every two weeks.

Kittens may sometimes get what I call “poopy butt.”  This is when stool gets stuck to their hind areas and back legs after using the litter box.  A good way to prevent “poopy butt” is by keeping hair around the anal area, back legs, and under the tail trim using BLUNT END scissors.  If your Kitten still gets stool stuck then you may give him/ her a half bath from the waist down.  Using warm running water wet the area, apply some shampoo to clean it off, rinse with warm water, and then dry with a towel
  Persians can have a “brachycephalic” head which means their skulls are short and broad giving them their distinguished “smooshed, “flat,” or “extreme” faces.  This causes their eye ducts to be short and have a tendency to become obstructed which leads to discharge or crusting around the eyes.  The best way to maintain good eye hygiene is by using q-tips or a warm washcloth.  Start by placing the q-tip vertically at the inner corner of the eye.  Then slowly and gently turn the q-tip to pick up the debris.  Make sure not to touch the eye ball with the q-tip.  For stubborn stains or discharge, wet the q-tip first with warm water.  
To remove tear stains, we recommend using Eye Envy sold at many pet stores and online. http://www.eyeenvy.com/  


 
How to bathe your Persian Kitten:
1.
Fill up the bathroom or kitchen sink with warm water
2.
Dip your Kitten into the water and get the entire coat wet.  Do not dip Kitten’s head into the water.  Also try to avoid getting any water in Kitten’s ears and eyes.
3.
Take Kitten out of water and apply Shampoo to coat and lather up.  Again make sure to be very careful around the eyes and ears.
4.
Dip Kitten back into the water and rinse shampoo off thoroughly.  
5.
Cats need two or three shampoos & rinses! One is not enough
6.
Drain the sink.  You might need to use running water to rinse off any remaining shampoo.
7.
Dry your Kitten off with a towel



How to bond with your new Kitten:
The best way I found to teach your Kitten his/her new name is by singing it
*** Example:  “Princess Gizmo!  My Princess Gizmo!” or “Prince Baaboo… Fabulous Baaboo!”
When your Kitten says meow, say meow back.  Your kitten is trying to talk to you and engage in conversation.
Persian Kittens love to have their chin, ears, and bellies rubbed.  The more you pet and touch your Kitten the better.  
The secret petting spot that all Persian Kittens love is where their back and top of tail meet.  Try it!  It’ll make your Kitten purr.  
Give your Kitten treats such as little pieces of boiled chicken or cat treats
Engage in playtime with plenty of toys
*** A great way to keep toys fresh is by “marinating” them in a zip lock bag of catnip when not in use.
Kittes love laser pointers.  Laser pointers are a great way to play with your Kitten without having to move!
Remember your Kitten needs his/her own space at times.  Cats have what I call “Cattitude.”  Sometimes you have to let them play by themselves, sleep uninterrupted, and allow them to come to you when they want to.
 
 
If you have any questions or suggestions please email us lovepersians@ymail.com


HOW TO INTRODUCE YOUR CAT TO YOUR NEW KITTEN:





For more information online regarding indoor cat needs:
By the Ohio State University College of Veterinary Medicine http://indoorpet.osu.edu/


FAQs:

Frequently asked questions &  MORE TIPS
Introduction into the Home

When introducing a new kitten into a household already occupied by one or more cats, it is best to place the new kitten in a separate room for a few days with food, water, a litter box, and a scratching post. Ideally, the scratching post is the only surface that your kitten can scratch. Since conditioning of the claws (scratching) is normal behavior for cats, it is important that your kitten learn what objects are acceptable to scratch.

Litter train your kitten right away by gently moving his or her two front paws in a digging motion in the box to trigger thoughts of voiding. This is probably all that will be necessary for litter training. The litter box should be cleaned daily and the entire contents replaced once or twice weekly. STERILIZE BOX WHEN CHANGING WITH A WEAK SOLUTION OF BLEACH AND WATER> DRY WELL. Confining the kitten initially will allow your resident cats to become familiar with the kitten's odor and sounds. The older your resident cats are, the longer this adjustment period can take. One should supervise initial meetings by partially opening the door for interactions of several minutes (depending on progress), several times daily for a few days before allowing the new kitten free range of your home.Once your new kitten is introduced to the entire home, a few strategically placed scratching posts can be very useful; make sure to place one where the kitten sleeps, because cats often condition their claws when they awaken. You may have to provide more litter boxes if one of your cats is reluctant to share a box. There should be one box per cat plus one extra one. more. Your kitten needs stimulation to allow normal development of play and social behavior. If you already have other cats, or if you adopt two kittens, this important need should be met. If the kitten has no playmates, however, provide toys and allow time every day to play with your kitten. He or she needs this attention, especially during the first 6 months of life. Social play instinct develops from weeks 4 to 11, and then declines. There is a marked increase in predatory play behavior at 8 weeks. Social play persists into adulthood, so continue to provide your cat with toys as it grows up.
While bringing home a new kitten or cat is exciting, it's very stressful for the animal. Change is traumatic for cats, so you don't want to bring your kitten home when your house is crowded and noisy, or show it off to your friends and family as soon as it arrives. Follow these steps when welcoming a new cat or kitten into your home.
  • If possible, introduce your kitten to its new home when the house is quiet, perhaps when the children are at school.

  • Prepare a room for the kitten before its arrival. Make sure the room is quiet and kitten-proof. Put its food, water, scratching post and litter box in the room. Make sure the kitten has something soft to sleep on.

  • Don't take the kitten out of its carrier until it's in its own room. Shut the door to the room and open the carrier. Don't worry if the kitten hides. Talk to it softly. Never pull a kitten out from under the furniture. (No kitten has ever lived its entire life under a bed. Your kitten will come out when it's ready.)

  • Enter the room every few hours to clean the litter and check on the kitten. Otherwise, leave the kitten alone.

  • If the kitten seems to want attention, spend some time with the kitten. Talk softly and be gentle with the kitten. Encourage children to do the same.

  • When the kitten is no longer hiding and seems comfortable, let it out of the room. Make sure the house is quiet when you do this. Don't be surprised if your kitten takes a quick look around and retreats to its room. Repeat this process for several days.

  • Once the kitten seems secure in its new home, you can leave the door to its room open. However, it's a good idea to confine the kitten to its room whenever you're not at home.
 
  • Easing The Transition

    Introduce your cat to your home gradually by following these helpful hints:

    * For the first day or two, keep your kitten confined to one room with a litter box, food and water. Let her become comfortable in this room before introducing her to the rest of the house.

    * After your new kitten is relaxed and acclimated, allow her to explore and roam the rest of the house.

    Children in the household

    Show your children how to properly pick up a kitten and how to play with their new pet. Teach them that cats don't like to be teased or have their ears or tail pulled. Always supervise your children's interaction with your new kitten, especially when they have friends over to play.

    Other pets

    Keep your kitten confined to one room of the house for the first few days, giving your other pet(s) a chance to grow accustomed to her smell. Make the first introduction short and sweet, removing the kitten after a few minutes. Most pets will work things out in their own way, which may take about a week. If your pets are having more difficulty adjusting, supervise their time together and be patient. Offer both pets a place to go when they want to be alone.

Introducing a new kitten to an older animal can be very stressful on the older animal. Lavish most of your attention on the older animal, not the kitten, making sure that the old-timer doesn't feel threatened by the newcomer.
Before you introduce a new kitten to the household, be sure she (as well as your resident pets) is disease-free and has been recently checked by your veterinarian. Older, settled-in pets may resist sharing their domain, and it may take a month or more before your new kitten is an accepted member of the family. Follow these steps for smooth introductions:

Step 1: Put your new kitten in a separate room away from other pets for the first day or two, and leave her travel crate open in the room. The familiarity of the crate may make it a safe haven. (Resident pets will become aware of her presence from her scent.) If you have another cat, he may prowl around the doorway and show signs of aggression.
During this period, spend extra time with your resident pet to relieve any anxiety and minimize tension. Confine him to his favorite part of the house while the new kitten is allowed brief journeys out to explore your home. When your new kitten seems comfortable, allow the animals to start viewing each other.

Step 2: Allow your pets to meet. Stay in the room while they get acquainted. Let them sniff out each others space and one another. Make sure each pet has an easy escape route in case one or the other wants to leave. Some hissing or growling is to be expected.Tips for successful pet introductions• If one cat shows hostility toward another during the initial introductions, don't punish him; that action could backfire. Instead, start the whole process over again after separating the animals for a day or two.• Respect each pet's territorial rights. If your older cat has claimed the living-room sofa as her favorite spot, allow her to keep that space as her own domain. Help your new kitten find a different spot she can call her own.• Establish separate but equal relationships with each pet to prevent jealousy.• If you have a dog, keep him on a leash at first, and monitor him closely. In the beginning, don't let him chase or bother your new kitten, and don't make your kitten remain in the same room with the dog if she's uncomfortable or scared.• Buy separate food and water bowls.• Give each cat a separate litter box plus one extra one.




Taken away from its mother, brothers and sisters, your kitten will feel very lonely once you bring it home. In order to try and relieve this complete change of scenery, it is essential that you are perfectly ready to welcome your kitten into its new family.

No excitement.

Remember that your kitten has just been brought into totally unknown surroundings. Curb your enthusiasm – move gently and without shouting. Avoid handling the kitten excessively. An excessively noisy or agitated atmosphere could cause your kitten to be a nervous and fearful adult.

With children.

Children often tend to almost smother the new arrival with attention. They get excited, want to touch it and catch hold of its tail. An adult cat is perfectly capable of avoiding children when it doesn't want to be bothered, but a kitten is not. You need to explain to your children that the kitten is not a toy, that it needs lots of sleep and that it is absolutely forbidden to wake it up just to cuddle it. It is best not to allow young children to play with the cat in your absence. Your supervision will aid in avoiding scratches.

The right moves.

Remember to handle your kitten carefully. Any rough or sudden movement can terrify your kitten. If you want to carry it, the best way to hold it is to slide one hand, open wide, under its stomach with the other under its rearend for bigger breeds. In order to show your authority, take it by the scruff of its neck, just like its mother would do to carry it. This will not cause any harm to the kitten.

The wrong moves.
  • Pull its tail.
  • Take it by the head.
  • Slide both hands under its front feet.
Good habits to adopt.
  • Don’t leave plastic bags or things made out of foam lying around.
  • Close the trash can lid and the toilet seat cover (careful with trash-bag ties, which all cats love to swallow).
  • Cover electric hot plates with proper protection.
  • Limit access to balconies and decks if possible.
  • Be careful with irons. They are often responsible for burns.
Your kitten’s eating program.

The kitten's nutritional needs are specific during the first weeks of its life and will change as it grows older.

Kittens less than 4 months old. 
From 4 to 5 weeks of age, a kitten can be given solid food. This food can be first offered in the form of gruel prepared with a little warm water. The quantity of liquid will then gradually be reduced until your kitten is only being given the dry food.

Kittens more than 4 months old. 
After its second teeth have come through, the proportions of the different nutrients essential to the kitten's growth remain the same until it is one year old. Only the daily quantities of food for growth will vary and be increased until it reaches adulthood. The growth formula also serves as an ideal diet for a pregnant or lactating queen because the nutritional requirements are quite different during this period.

You should avoid any sudden change of food, or otherwise run the risk of provoking digestive problems. Plan to continue with previously given food, at least for a few days. Ask the breeder or the person who gave you the kitten about their feeding methods (number of meals/day, rationed or ad lib) and types of meals.

If you want to change its food, you should make sure there is a gradual transition from the old food to the new over a period of one week. This transition helps to minimize the risks of soft stools or diarrhea, which can be very harmful to the kitten's proper development.

Food transition chart.

  • 1st and 2nd days: 75% of the previous food and 25% of the new 
  • 3rd and 4th days: 50% previous and 50% new
  • 5th and 6th days: 25% previous and 75% new
  • Final day: 100% new
Behavior.

These tests are very simple and quickly help you to become familiar with your kitten’s personality.

Socialization test. 
Observe your kitten from a distance:

  • If it runs to play with your shoe laces or rub up against you, this means that it has been properly socialized.
  • If it is nervous and tries to run away when you approach it, it has not been properly socialized.
  • It is essential to start this phase again, provide toys and play with your kitten.

Aluminum foil ball test. 
Roll a ball of aluminum foil in front of your kitten. If it is slow to react, it is expressing fear or great indifference to outside movement.

Dominance test. 
A kitten that easily allows its tummy to be stroked while lying on its back has perfectly assimilated parental authority – it will be docile and easy-mannered. If, however, the kitten struggles or tries to scratch, its character may cause it to have unexpected reactions, such as biting when stroked.

Noise test. 
Clap your hands loudly with the kitten seeing you. If it acts curious while staying calm, your kitten has been brought up in a full and stimulating environment. If it runs away, you must very quickly expose it to the noises and contacts of civilization so that it discovers plenty of new sensations.


http://www.royalcanin.us/cats/kitten_care.aspx


 



 
Cat Registries

Cat Fanciers Association - CFA.org
The Cat Fanciers' Association, the world’s largest registry of pedigreed cats, is a non-profit organization founded in 1906. CFA's mission is to preserve and promote the pedigreed breeds of cats and to enhance the well-being of all cats. CFA promotes education, responsible cat ownership and proper care to the owners of millions of cats worldwide. Royal Canin is proud to be a Diamond Level sponsor. 

The International Cat Association - TICA.org
The International Cat Association, Inc. is the world's largest genetic registry of pedigreed cats, as well as household pet cats. Founded in 1979, TICA is a progressive and continuously growing registry and show sanctioning body, whose motto is "For Fabulous Felines, Fun And Friendships!" With members and clubs all over the world, wherever you are, you're in TICA's world! Royal Canin is proud to be an exclusive sponsor.

American Cat Fanciers Association - ACFACat.com
Promotes the welfare, education, knowledge and interest in all domesticated, purebred and non-purebred cats, to breeders, owners, exhibitors of cats and the general public.
 

  Kitten anatomy diagram           


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Persian_Cat 
     
























THANK YOU DIANE AMBLE OF DEARHEART PERSIANS FOR YOUR GUIDANCE AND CONTINUED SOUND ADVICE.
YOUR LOVE FOR ANIMALS IS EVIDENT WITH THE CARE AND SUPPORT YOU PROVIDE WITH YOUR KITTENS.


Here is an e-mail sent to us from Diane Amble the foremost leading authority in Dearheart kitten care. Not only is she the most important key to "Preserving the Dearhearts", she has a wealth of knowledge with years of experience breeding chinchila silver persians almost exclusively from the bloodlines of Jeanne and Phillip Ramsdale of Dearheart cattery. Since the 1950's Jeanne and Phillip Ramsdale  were considered the most reknowned athority on Persian cats in this country. They even wrote the book on it called, "Persian Cats and other Longhairs." It's has many photos shows how much has changed over the years in the cat world.  On sale for a few bucks online here on Amazon..
.
 http://www.amazon.com/Persian-Other-Longhairs-Jeanne-Ramsdale/dp/0876661797 


Here are a few things we do to take extra care of our royalty:

We prepare either chopped boiled chicken or sauteed ground turkey with broth poured over and topped with a dollop of goat yogurt twice daily for kittens, once daily for adults. They love roasted chicken or turkey but this is not as easy.

 Supplements below are added to this prepared food:

www.belfield.com <<< MegaC (we use Everyday to top dress (just a sprinkle); Vital Liquid also a great product.)

www.celestialpets.com <<< has great supplements

Be sure to always give taurine (essential for eye health)
 top dressed or mixed into wet food preparation
http://www.revivalanimal.com/store/p/2371-Fel-O-Taurine.aspx 

We also use pink Himalayan salt for family and cats (very delicious!) along with a bit of psyllium (Metamucil Plain) sprinkled on
WET FOOD ONLY.

For an always ready snack (but not as main food source), we use Solid Gold INDIGO MOON or Royal Canin BABY CAT dry kibble<<< this would be their preference.

A noon snack is a portion of Fancy Feast classic style chicken, beef or turkey with chicken soup broth poured over.

Litter: http://www.preciouscat.com/product/senior/
(Yes, it is a Senior variety but we like using it for the cats best, as it is "scoop-able" if you do it very carefully and the odor absorption is phenomenal) It does not stick to the kitties, does not stain their fur and is actually bacteria resistant too!

Cat tree: any type, the bigger the better, place near a window. We always recommend one with sisal rope as part of the cat tree for scratching needs. And you should get a tiny cat nail nipper to keep her nails trimmed. They love the toys (see links below) and catnip of course! We grow our own and let it dry in the oven when turned off (its propane) and then serve freshly dried and they actually EAT it!

Flea control: Program ONLY (non-toxic oral product)
http://www.revivalanimal.com/store/p/2495-Program.aspx?feed=GoogleProductSearch&gdftrk=gdfV2457_a_7c543_a_7c1841_a_7c2499
The only thing we recommend for fleas is Program, it is non-toxic, oral treatment. It can come in chewable (dog version) or liquid top dressing (cat); we only use it in summertime when anyone can pick up a stray flea...

You feed her all she will eat then adjust daily as she is a growing kitten, so daily adjustments are normal.

Remember to warm the food up (not microwave) as cats prefer it warm but will eat room temp. ok as well...
top with goat yogurt (any brand usually available at health food stores like Whole Foods or Trader Joes). By the way, we only use goat milk (human grade) to feed nursing kittens. NEVER KITTEN REPLACER FORMULA EVER!

http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3563813
http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2753802 at night, you may want to flip this one over as cats love to make noise with it especially at night!


Diane & Firenza
www.dearheartpersians.com

PS Remember, the GOOP shampoo is just to take out the greasy areas
like the ears, tail, maybe along the back (spine) but use 2 to 3
other shampoos for shiny clean coat. Remember, always rinse rinse rinse
and when you think all the shampoo is out, rinse some more! Then when you
blow dry her, use two warm towels from the dryer to wick away as much moisture 
as possible. Use a medium to low heat only and when you think she is dry---
dry another 5 minutes!